The Ghosts of World War II and Tateyama War Sites, Day #4, Monday, May 18

Tateyama historian, Noboru Aizawa's life work is to keep the horrors of WWII alive
 for present and future generations.  Behind him is perhaps the only monument in Japan
dedicated to the memory of the "comfort women." 

The Akayama Underground Tunnels -- World War lurks even more vividly than usual here in Tateyama as the memories of B-29s flying overhead on their way to destroy Tokyo are still fresh.  And kept fresh by a group of local historians led by Noboru Aizawa, a passionate activist determined to keep the history of Japan's involvement and responsibilities alive.  The Tateyama area has many world war II locations still visible and open for exploration, including the kamikaze bunkers and the defensive tunnels that run for miles back under the earth.  With our encouragement almost 20 years ago, and the assistance of local government (local governments are beginning to realize the tourist potential) the evidence of the war is becoming increasingly public. 

The Japanese government's problems with memory. It is ironic that, as the Japanese government dithers about just what memory of the war should be kept - if any -- these local historians and volunteers have decided to keep it all alive, including one of the most sensitive topics of all - the "comfort women" who were used as prostitutes during the war both in Japan and in the Empire. 

The Silent Scream - There is a monument here -- one built in the 1980s -- to the memory of the comfort women.  So, while the government can't decide what to say, Aizawa and his cohorts are saying it to anyone willing to listen.  This may have been one of the most powerful moments I have every had in Japan or anywhere else.  Many were weeping while Aizawa-sensei reminded us of this story, not only for the story of the brutality of war, but also in admiration of Aizawa-san and his commitment and passions.

And, as with many monuments, its true power comes when it is brought to life by someone -- a strong, sometimes courageous person who stands before it, to remind us of exactly what the symbol represents.  No amount of interpretive signage or smart phone apps can do that.  It takes a living, breathing, sensitive engaged human to bring it to life.  Aizawa-sensei is that man. 

We are honored to share this place with him, and we will do everything possible to encourage and support him.

Aizawa-sensei with our group inside the Akayama tunnel
describing how the tunnel might have been used as a "last stand"
location for Japanese military and civilians had there been an Allied
invasion in 1945.

Aizawa took us to the precise location where U.S. troops first landed
in Tateyama in September, 1945.  Both the Japanese civilians who witnessed
the landing and the US Army troops were delighted that none of
the violence each expected occurred.  Peace broke out here 70 years ago.  That's
our intrepid leader and translator, Kaori Mizoguchi on the left.